Usually when working with a striker, a lower anvil is helpful. With Uri’s method a higher anvil can be used without raising the shoulder awkwardly high. The Uri Hoffi method of forging a bar is to stand toward the end of the anvil, looking toward the round horn, drawing out the bar which is 90 degrees to the anvil face, and with the hammer parallel to the outside edge of the anvil. At times when working with a bar positioned at a 45 degree angle over the far edge of the anvil, the bar holding shoulder will naturally be high and a lower anvil is appreciated, but when doing so with the bar on the near edge of the anvil a higher anvil is desired - again a compromise is necessary or a different stance is required. Remember that the surface being forged is often above the anvil face such as when using a hot cut, fuller, or just if the metal is thick. I find that it leads to a stiff neck and uncomfortable shoulder at the end of the day. With wrist height, I find that I need to frequently raise my shoulder uncomfortably high. Some blacksmiths suggest wrist height as being less hard on the back and easier for them, but I find it awkward given the methods that I use. After trying several different heights, the one I like the best is the top knuckle height. Old time blacksmith books suggest a height of knuckle height (that is the 2nd knuckle in the middle of the fingers). under the anvil helps the surfaces mate.Īnvil height is always a compromise. Generally a piece of leather, thin lead, silicone caulk, tar paper, etc. Wrought iron anvil bottoms are sometimes uneven, but they can be trued up by a machinist or with careful use of a belt sander or angle grinder. The anvil should be fastened down to the stump very tight! A solid/tight fastening system stops both the bounce and movement of the anvil and diminishes greatly any ringing/noise. are last choice woods for an anvil stump as they are light weight. Lighter weight woods such as Cottonwood, Pine, etc. Often the local tree service company will have, or can acquire, a suitable stump. A hoop with a bolt can just be tightened as the stump shrinks. A hoop that is tightened by a bolt is also a practical solution. A stump with a hoop that is shrunk on might need to be redone as the stump shrinks or the top and bottom of the stump can be tapered a little and then the hoop can be driven on tighter as the stump dries. Stumps that split easily can be strengthened by shrinking an iron hoop or ring around the top and bottom of the stump. Woods that are heavy but split easily are Oak and Ash. Some non-splitting and heavy woods are American Elm (best but hard to find), Sycamore, Honey Locust, Walnut, Mulberry, and Sugar Maple. It is best to use a heavy wood that doesn’t split easily. This system works if the blacksmith knows how high he wants his anvil, as it is not a system for which the height is easily adjusted. There are many ways to prepare a stump, but this is the one that works for me. Of course if the anvil needs to be moved periodically, fastening the stump down is not usually an option. When that is impractical, iron brackets fastened to the tree stump and the floor helps. Preferably a stump should be buried 3 feet into the ground. When fastened securely to the anvil, the stump becomes an integral part of the anvil and a heavy base makes a small anvil act like a bigger one. They are pleasing to the eye and very serviceable. Traditional tree stumps as anvil bases are my favorites. There isn't a speck of blue paint on my anvil any more.Alternative Methods (+ 3% Fee) Anvil Base - Stump Preparation I even still have a picture back from when it was new. This stand isn't traditional or conventional but it's worked very well for me. Maybe ten years later the stump had shrunk and the binding steel was loose so I cut them apart and welded them back together tight. A few months later I cut out a piece of sheet lead and put it under the anvil to damp the ring. It moves around the shop OK just by tilting and walking it, not too tough. Haven't had to yet, and it's been about 12 years I guess. If I need to, I can lift off the anvil and move it and the base separately. Rather, I just made two pieces that fit the side curves in the anvil base and lagged them down so they sit tight to the anvil. I made a couple of bands from 1/4x2" steel strap and tapped them on. Then I brought it home and used a skilsaw to cut back the edges top and bottom. I got him to rough my stump out to a rectangular shape. I also had a buddy with one of those bandsaw mills.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |